Exploring Luxury Japan Through La Carmina's Eyes

We spoke with award-winning travel journalist La Carmina, one of the most distinctive voices in Japanese travel, to get her perspective on what defines true luxury in Japan and how travelers can go deeper, beyond the expected, to find immersive and meaningful experiences across the country.

She also runs the long-standing alt Japan blog LaCarmina.com and shares her journeys with a global audience on Instagram @LaCarmina.

Luxury in Japan often looks and feels different from elsewhere. In your view, what defines true luxury here?

Japan has a culture of omotenashi, or heartfelt hospitality that anticipates your needs and is performed with care and grace. For me, it’s these subtle acts of warmth and welcoming that make Japanese luxury so outstanding. For example, the staff at a Hakone hotel saw me arriving on foot from a block away, and ran out to greet me and take my bags.

Another time, I requested an HDMI cable, but the hotel did not have one, so the staff went out to purchase it immediately. To me, luxury also consists of the small details that appeal to the senses and elevate the travel experience, such as premium tatami mats that give off the clean scent of rush grass as you step on them, and beautiful traditional robes for guests to use at the onsen or hot springs.

Where would you send people if they ask for something that’s not just exclusive, but deeply personal and immersive?

This would depend on the person’s particular passions and what is most meaningful to them. For example, if someone adores modern architecture, then I’d suggest a stay in one of the seven exclusive suites at Tadao Ando’s Setouchi Retreat, a masterwork of Japanese minimalist architecture with stark planes of concrete framed by the blue sea and sky. If they adore contemporary art, then I’d recommend a private tour of Naoshima Island that includes workshops with local artists.

Are there any ryokans or boutique properties right now that you feel are redefining what high-end hospitality looks like in Japan?

Hoshino Resorts is a standout: they have stunning five-star hotels throughout Japan, including a beachfront resort in Okinawa and a high-rise ryokan at Hoshinoya Tokyo. Their beautifully designed high-end interiors, gastronomy, and amenities always reflect the local culture, and many properties are in secluded natural locations that add to the sense of immersive exclusivity.

Food can be theatre, ritual, or revelation. What kind of dining experiences in Japan go far beyond the Michelin checklist?

I’ve had so many wonderful “only in Japan” dining experiences at all price points. My friends and I always go back to the izakaya Kagaya, which is literally theatre: the owner serves delicious homestyle food and engages in surreal, hilarious performances involving costumes and dances (it's hard to put into words, but here's a video of Kagaya)! I also recently wrote an Eater guide to Osaka restaurants; the selection includes a kaiseki dinner with ritualistic offerings to Shinto gods.

Can you share an example of a meal or a chef that stands out for intimacy, not just reputation?

I’ve sent many friends to Sushi Sugahisa in Toranomon Hills. The friendly chef trained in Thailand, and fuses the freshest fish of the day with Thai flavors – it’s wonderful to sit at his counter and watch him experiment. I’m still thinking of how he combined ingredients like tuna from the fish market with lemongrass, tom yum flavors, and kaffir lime.

What’s one specific destination, beyond Tokyo and Kyoto, that has emerged recently as a go-to for travellers seeking exclusivity and depth?

Osaka has a reputation for being a gritty city of street food. However, it’s developed into one of the most exciting destinations in Japan for gastronomy and culture. I urge visitors to explore Osaka – the city now has many outstanding high-end restaurants, hotels, and experiences while maintaining its signature raucous, soulful energy.

Are there experiences that require local relationships, whether it’s a private market tour, a sake tasting with a brewer, or a chef’s home kitchen?

Absolutely: many experiences are not accessible unless someone can speak Japanese and make a personal introduction. Often, such places are part of a subculture, and there’s little to no information about them online, so you’ll have to form relationships with insiders and gain their trust to receive access.

Finally, for someone who thinks they’ve “done” Japan, what’s one experience you’d recommend that might completely reframe their idea of travel here?

Many travelers have never heard of Shirakawa-go, a village not far from Kanazawa that is famous for its historic thatched roof houses. I felt like I had stepped back in time when I arrived in this farm community dotted with these ancient pointed peak homes. It was a joy to stay in one and enjoy a traditional family meal before curling up in a futon on a tatami mat. You can see photos and details of my Shirakawa-go experience here; it was a Japan travel experience that I’ll never forget.